Ingalls Peak, East Ridge

After much debate, guidebook reading, contemplation, etc... Nathan and I decided that we would go back and climb the East Ridge of Ingalls Peak, near Mt. Stuart in the Central Cascades. It looked attractive: long, mostly easy, some steep snow, wonderful position. All of these things were true, but it turned into quite an adventure.

We started early from the car, and before long found ourselves at Ingalls Pass. I made the same mistake as I did before: I descended into the valley and wound up at Ingalls Lake. I have two recommendations: 1) stay higher in the basin, aiming for the east shoulder of the large "South Peak" of Ingalls.I wish I had a good photo to show you. 2) If you end up at Ingalls Lake, stay low until you can get onto snow just above the lake, and climb up this UNLESS there is avalanche hazard (it is reaonably steep) or it is late in the day (there are many rocks which could melt loose).

So, we climbed up steep snow. Now, I did this in low top "approach shoes". It worked, but I was nervous! No crampons, no stiff boots to kick easily with! Yikes, but a good experience.

Here is the first pitch, which with a 60m rope would probably gain the ridge. We had a 50m rope, and I didn't know what to expect, so I gave Nathan a belay. Nathan is a barely discernible spot in the center, near a V which opens to the left.

Nathan on the twin (!) gendarmes. He led a bit up to this, but I was to lead the gendarme so he stopped early. I led to here, and then Nathan belayed me down the other side. This was a little scary--it is quite exposed. Nathan was a little nervous, and understandbly so--so if you're going to belay here, I'd recommend doing it at the base of the downclimb, before you head back up. That way you can spot your second.

Darn nice view, huh?

Most of the climbing was very straightforward. Stay on the crest, for the most part. Finding your way on this is not hard, but still has enough twists and turns to be enticing and fun. The rock is solid, wonderful stuff to climb, with good protection for running or fixed belays. It is quite long. Guidebooks say 5 pitches, but if you are really pitching it out, it is more like 9, partly due to length, partly due to where the good belays are.

We met some nice folks on the summit-it turned out we had some mutual friends-and rappelled down the South Ridge route with them. A few more hours hiking and we were out. A fantastic day trip!