Take Me Home...

Cascades Mountaineering, Summer 2002

It was with great excitement that I flew home to Seattle to meet friends and family this past June. I had grand plans: a COE course on advanced mountaineering and guiding skills, time to climb with my brother and my friend Dave Burdick (see our climb of Outer Space). Not all of my expectations were met, but partly that was due to unrealistic expectations. That's always a nasty one, isn't it? I was thwarted on a climb I have dreamed of for many years, but I also discovered a couple of gems I wouldn't have considered before, climbed a few classics, and learned a great deal about climbing. As I once said about a climb of Cutthroat Peak, it took every ounce of courage, skill, strength, and faith that I had, it took more, and the mountains saw me through.

(Some of the photos are compressed, cause there are many, so the quality isn't always great)

I began on the COE course, partly as an instructor, since two of our companions had no glacier experience. We arrived on Mt. Baker with clouds overhead, and soon we were hiking in towards the lower reaches of the Coleman glacier, where we would practice our glacier skills.

Crossing a creek. (photo Matt Wade)

Above: The Coleman Glacier Icefall

After practicing self arrests, roping up for glaciers, and such, we moved out to the area below the Coleman icefall, and practiced crevasse rescue. First, a demo with a pack as "victim", then real practice!

(photo: Matt Wade)

Matt instructs Nick (far right) and Ethan (left).

Nick practices solo rescue, digging his anchor. At right, Matt belays Ethan,

and Ethan is in the hole!

After some ice climbing, it was time to head up the hill! We decided to try the Roman Moustache/Pencil Thin route. I was all ready for the North Ridge, but this would turn out to be a fantastic climb.

Roping up and looking at the map

Early the next morning, Matt Wade leads steep ice as we venture onto the Moustache. I would lead the second rope up this, and I was glad Matt had left a couple extra pickets in!

From high on the route, we could see the Twin Sinsters, and Puget Sound.

We made the summit in high winds, and were greeted by the seemingly so far away Mt. Shuksan

And then on to Leavenworth and Washington Pass!

Not too many photos from here... Midway was the first ascent route of Castle Rock, by Beckey and company

After some packing up,

It was time for some fine South Early Winters Spire rock! (photo Matt Wade)

And the fin near the summit! (photo Matt Wade)

Nick followed... (Matt)

On the way back down the (nasty, worthless, chossy) SW couloir, Matt left two spectra slings! And guess what? Dave and Emily found them the next day and turned them into belts! I missed them by a couple hours, oh well.

And then to the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, right next door!

Goats in Paradise!

Matt and I watch Nick lead the second pitch (photo: Ethan Brodey), Nick leads the thrid pitch, Ethan readies himself.

I frictioned up the final steep slab, as Ethan spots me (photo by Matt Wade), and finally on the summit.

Washington Pass has certainly a very special place in my heart, but no place on Earth holds my heart like Boston Basin. East of Marblemount, up the Cascade River Valley, lies what I can only describe as a palace--the phrase (though not the scene for the Ibsen reader), "In the Hall of the Mountain King" always comes to mind. If there truly were a monarch of the mountains, he would live in Boston Basin. Sadly, I did not climb here this time. Though I have peered in from all sides, and now have set foot on the snow there, it was not to be. The reasons are complicated, but they are not for here. In the end, these are the things I will remember, and that I recall when I return.